You might even have to do both of these things, depending on the average temperatures in the room where the cage is located.
Flexwatt tape is another way to achieve this effect. You could place the heat source below the reptile enclosure, using reptile heating mats or pads.You could cover part of the screen lid to reduce the amount of warm air that escapes.If you have a screen lid on top of a terrarium, and you’re having troubling keep the cage warm enough for your pet snake, you basically have two choices: Aside from the small area where the lamp sits, the rest of the cage top is solid. In this scenario, the heat from the lamp radiates into the cage, where much of it is retained by the plastic top and sides of the snake’s enclosure. The recessed area has an aluminum grate to prevent the snake from burning itself on the bulb. But the lamp sits deep inside a recessed area built into the top of the cage. I have a plastic reptile enclosure with a heat lamp mounted in the top. With a screen lid covering the top of the glass cage, there is nothing to keep the warm air from rising up and out of the snake’s enclosure. Clearly, you can see the problem with this kind of cage setup. The heat starts off above the snake, and the natural tendency is for it to rise. But the heat source in the scenario I just described sits on the top of the cage. Unless it’s a green tree python or some other arboreal species, your pet snake will spend most of its time on the bottom of the cage. And that’s why hot air balloons go up when filled with hot air. That’s why the upstairs of my house is always warmer than the downstairs. You want to create a range of temps by making one end of the enclosure warmer than the other end. This can lead to all sorts of health problems for a captive reptile. You don’t want the entire cage to be the same temperature. It’s true that snakes need a thermal gradient. This allows the pet snake to thermoregulate, or move between the two zones to regulate its body temperature as it would in nature. The lamp will warm one end of the snake’s cage, thereby creating a thermal gradient (which means that one end is warmer than the other). In theory, this kind of setup makes a lot of sense. Like all pet snakes, ball pythons need a proper temperature gradient in their cages This is done to create a basking spot for the ectothermic inhabitant. Then, a heat lamp is placed on top of the screen lid, toward one end of the cage. The animal is placed inside of a glass tank / terrarium with a screen lid covering the top. It’s one of the most common cage setups for pet snakes. What can I do to increase the nighttime temps inside my ball python’s enclosure?” Here’s what I usually tell people: Cover the Lid, or Use an Under-Tank Reptile Heat Mat I have a 150-watt heat lamp on top of the cage right now. The cage is getting too cool at night, down to 70 degrees. It has a screen lid that snaps onto the top. Here’s an email I received last week: “I am keeping a ball python in a 40-gallon glass tank that I purchased from Petco. In this snake care lesson, I’ll offer some tips for controlling the temps inside one of these screen-lid-style enclosures. Heat, humidity and exposure are the most common problems. These enclosures can cause all sorts of problems when used to house reptiles. Your basic all-glass terrarium used for reptiles and small animals. In this context, I’m talking about the type of glass tank that has a screen lid on the top. Lately, I’ve been getting a lot of correspondence from snake keepers who are having trouble maintaining temperatures inside a glass terrarium.
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